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Published on: 10/12/2001
Last Visited: 11/9/2002
MONIQUE WELLS TALKS ABOUT THE AFRICAN AMERICAN EXPERIENCE IN PARIS AND COOKING THE FOODS OF HOME
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Wells is not a chef by trade-she is a veterinary pathologist for L'Oréal and also runs a personalized itinerary travel service with her husband called Discover Paris.But with Food for the Soul, Wells isn't so much trying to tell the French how to cook as she is humbly documenting her family's culinary past.
If leaving home makes us appreciate it, than this is surely magnified when one chooses to live an ocean away.The sounds and smells of home become larger than life and it is not too much of an exaggeration to say that some of us find ourselves swooning at the taste of something as unromantic as an Oreo-hardly Proust with his madeleines, but there you have it.At its most convenient and cynical, this is the motivating factor of what must lead Americans to dine at McDonalds in other countries.But it also creates a desire to seek out and make for ourselves the tastes of hearth and home.Food for the Soul captures this spirit.
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Monique Wells
It was intended just to be a collection of soul food recipes for the Paris-based African American womens group called SISTERS to which Wells belongs.But it grew beyond that.Though its manuscript was written in English, the book actually was first published in French in 1999, under the title, La Cuisine Noire Americaine.Wells had presented it to several publishers and after a series of ups and downs, the manuscript was shown to famed French chef Alain Ducasse, who supported it and wrote the forward.
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Because it was going to first appear for the French, Wells expanded the manuscript, beyond the recipes and family anecdotes to include a small history of food preparations in African American homes, and how the cuisine developed by making the most from the scraps of food given to slaves by their masters.
Of course there are hundreds of recipe books out there, and even those are becoming outmoded due to the number of cooking websites.What gives value to Wells' book is the balance that is struck between the familiar formula of recipe parlance on each page and conversationally written anecdotes about the importance of a certain dish in her family and what it means to her now.This brings more meaning and insight into the meals and their ingredients, knowing a particular food was the favorite of her aunt or her cousin."It was the second of the three publishers who suggested I add more information," Wells explains."He felt that to sell it to the French, they would really like to know more about Louisiana cooking and culture.So that got me started on a historical kick.I also came across information about the various ingredients and where they came from and dispelled some myths that I had held."
This is revealed in the book, with a look at the differences, for example, between sweet potatoes and yams (sweet potatoes are orangier and have more of a naturally moist taste) and even etymology (the word "yam" comes from the West African word nyami).
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Though Wells lists the different shops which sell American food products, she also provides the helpful aid of ingredient substitutions.Such as mimollette in place of cheddar.There is also the amusing note about French meat in the recipe for pan sausage that no matter how long she cooked it-even to the point of burning the top and bottom-the inside of the sausage remained pink."Apparently there is something in the meat deliberately.At a Southern food symposium [I attended], a man stood up and said that it's a preservative of some kind to give it an appetizing appearance."This is another one of the many cultural divides between the two nations.Whereas many in the U.S. won't eat meat cooked less than medium-well anymore, here even well-done looks rare.Very rare-and still there is a coloring used.Why such the panic in the U.S.?
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Wells thinks so."In the U.S., we are a little too concerned with being clean, with things that are perceived to be a danger to our health.I don't know if that leads us to being sue-crazy, or vice versa.And when it does happen, the media gets ahold of it and plays it up for all it is worth.A self-fullfilling prophecy, perhaps."
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Wells, along with her husband, has been living in Paris for over a decade.There are so many reasons that Americans find themselves living abroad, and for Wells, it was one of simple practicality."I loved the language.I studied French since I was in preschool, all my life.But even after a French minor in college, I still couldn't speak it.I knew that the only way I could become fluent was to immerse myself-and I just wanted to experience another culture."
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When asked about it, Wells is quite frank on the subject."I know that most black Americans would like to believe that all black people on earth are one big happy family.That the fact that you are black and you go to Africa that you are going to be welcome… that's the way they would like for it to be and a lot of people do believe that because they don't go anywhere.I have a lot of friends who have traveled and tell me that is not the case.Certainly here there are divisions between the African peoples, Caribbeans, and African Americans.When I say divisions, I don't mean there is hostility.There are so many cultural differences that cannot be bridged simply because we are all black.
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"Four are in more touristy areas, two are off the beaten path," explains Wells."The book was inspired by the Discover Paris walks.My intention was to expose where black people have been in Paris and what they have done, but not outside of the context of France.It would be a shame to isolate them and not talk about some of the things that have happened that are important in French culture.Hopefully what has been accomplished is to have a lively, not very heavy, but still very informative walk that one could enjoy even without coming to Paris."
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With these books, Wells is demonstrating another facet of expatriate life for Americans.Many would agree that the story of Paris is just as much the story of its foreigners-some celebrated, most not.It is a strange thing to live outside one's country, and if I can say it, the act of doing so has a different, heightened dynamic when you are of a people that has been historically disenfranchised in your native land.To take on and adopt a new culture by choice is exhilarating.Monique Wells has written one book about keeping one's old world alive in the new, and another book that celebrates the place of the new world for those of the old.Somewhere in between is every story.