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Published on: 11/19/2003
Last Visited: 8/12/2005
Gerald Y. KinroUH Press, 2003; 160 pages, $17.95
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Yet Gerald Y. Kinro, a pesticide specialist with the Hawai'i State Department of Agriculture, percolates to the occasion and recounts Kona's social and economic history in A Cup of Aloha: The Kona Coffee Epic (UH Press, 2003; 160 pages, $17.95).From the plant's adventures of a "roundabout route filled with luck, near misses, legends," to the many people who have toiled to produce it, Kona coffee emerges as an apt subject of an epic.Kinro is intimately acquainted with the famous bean , he was born and raised on a coffee farm in Kona.Who better to chronicle this heroic tale of how the various players struggled through adversity to achieve independence and success?Kinro deftly handles coffee's pre-Kona history, beginning in Ethiopia and following the caffeine crop through 10th-century Arab cultivation and its rise as a global export from the Netherlands' mid-17th-century colonies.
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Kinro sentimentally captures the fate of these farming families as they endure the adversity of insurmountable Depression-era debt and World War II Japanese internment.
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Oddly, Kinro says little about the finished product itself.Kona coffee has a savory charm and warm radiance, providing the smoothest buzz available from the legal end of stimulants.It is recognized as a signature creation of the islands.Kinro closes with a metaphor: Coffee yellowing plants wilt from a dry day, but, despite appearing dehydrated beyond the point of physiological repair, "the Kona coffee plants have never crossed that line, no matter how bad the drought."In his elevated style, Kinro imagines Kona as coffee's best destiny , its ideal geographical features for cultivation and the aloha of the people to ride the waves of its heroic history.