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Published on: 5/21/2003
Last Visited: 6/27/2008
I had the pleasure of sitting and exchanging comments with Stephen Dooley, owner/winemaker of Stephen Ross Wine Cellars, whose wines were paired with Grand Master Chef Stanley Nicas's culinary artistry.
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Stephen Dooley tried to restore order from further recriminations by discussing his wines from an owner/winemaker perspective.He explained his primary interest in soil and vine contribution to the fruit in his grapes; he spoke of wood tannin and skin tannin contribution the flavor of his wines; he emphasized his preoccupation with balance among fruit, acids, tannins, alcohol, texture, and residual sugar in his wines; he concluded, saying, "Wine is made in the vineyard, the winemaker is merely the caretaker - he is dedicated to nurturing Mother Earth's largess."
Approval of his wines from around the table attested to his success with his credo for achieving quality: The chardonnay and pinot noir were as good as - perhaps even better than-what the West Coast affords discriminating connoisseurs.
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Stephen's 2000 Bien Naciedo Pinot Noir recently received 95 points and best Pinot Noir of the 2000 vintage from Wine & Spirits Magazine.
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Here, Stephen spoke of the Monte Rosso zin: "The Monte Rosso vineyard is approximately 120 years old and, consequently, yields intensely flavored wines, albeit in small quantity.
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I agree with Stephen: a ‘classic example' of a superior zin.
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The now more wine-infused palateers, I included, congratulated Stephen Dooley; Andrea Gilbert, distributor; and Chris Pedersen, indefatigable rep of Ross wines, for the superb quality of the wines and the pleasure they afforded us.