This season, designer Jonny Cota took an unlikely urban-youth turn for the creation of his Skingraft collection.
"I kept being inspired by the idea of Japanese Gothic hip-hop.
What would that look like?
The collection took inspiration from hooded storytellers ranging from Buddhist monks to hip-hop lyricists finding a balance between the new age and the past.
"I was listening to a lot of contemporary rap and pop music that I don't usually have on rotation," he
"It was fun and it was enjoyable, and I thought this collection is going to reflect that," he
has always had a hooded-druid feeling, but Cota
took more of a lighthearted approach this time, adding streetwear inspiration to the mix.
For the runway presentation at Style Fashion Week LA on March 14, models wore bandanas and walked the runway wearing hooded jackets on their heads to reflect the urban aesthetic.
The palette was made up of the brand's signature black and muted brown and gray, and silhouettes were taken from hip-hop kids on the street.
Big, oversize hoodies and belted leather jackets were layered with baggy shorts, leggings and sneakers, styled through the Skingraft filter.
added plenty of understated basics to complement the collection, such as thin Modal shirts and tank tops and cotton pants to help balance out the structured leather garments.
also continued to move in a luxe direction, incorporating high-end fabrics, including the brand's signature leather, silk and sequins.
Woven dresses had leather panels, a knitted wool cardigan had leather sleeves, and shearling collars were applied to leather jackets.
Details were subtly dramatic, such as the goat hair that trimmed gloves-each shaped by hand-and leather-covered studs that created a monochromatic texture on a biker jacket.
This season, Cota
brought back some of the brand's former Victorian inspiration, incorporating corsetry details in updated shapes such as a python jacket with a lace-up back.
For the finale, Cota
paired a Mongolian lamb-trimmed jacket with an avant-garde pleated silk skirt evoking images of a monk trekking through the snowy Himalayas.
The Fall presentation marked the return of Skingraft
to the runway after a short hiatus and a welcome opportunity to present the collection as a unified vision.
"I was so torn about doing another L.A. runway show," Cota
fall Skingraft collection was inspired by "hooded storytellers, from Buddhist monks to hip-hop artists.
Leather and knit combo hoodies and leggings were a sophisticated take on athletic wear, while the rest of the lineup featured his
signature sharply tailored leather jackets and sinuous jersey tops.
went beyond his
usual black by adding dark brown and dove gray to the palette, which added a polished dimension to a square-shouldered jacket paired with an intricately tiered floor-length bias cut chiffon skirt."
The second show Wednesday evening at Style Fashion Week was Skingraft
designed by Jonny Cota
Cota who says the collection was inspired by "hip hop fusion with buddhist monks.
When I asked Cota
what designers he
was inspired by, he
responded, "I love the really freaky people that step outside the box.
Like Margiela and Thierry Mugler and people who really play with construction and don't really play by the rules.
Judging by the enthusiastic applause at the close of the show, I'd say Cota
just described his
own collection pretty perfectly.
in Elle Italia