Meadowood's chef left and, quite shrewdly, Meadowood plucked Chef Chris Kostow from Chez TJ, damaging the hopes of the Mountain View That Could.
It was a surprising meal - Kostow
is definitely a talent.
The meal was not perfect throughout but there were some great ideas and execution.
The food is careful and reserved, almost feeling restrained; you sense that the chef is still developing his
style (and/or learning how to incorporate it into the Meadowood resort framework.) He
cites Daniel Humm (of Eleven Madison Park (NY) fame) as a mentor, and while I see the influence, I think Kostow
has turned a corner for me that Humm has not - he's
got a delicacy that Humm only touches on in his
Given the lightness of many of the dishes, and the growing international vegetable movement, I could see Kostow
incorporating more vegetables into the meal.
Cooking in Napa, close to the produce, might provide the inspiration he
needs to solidify this aspect of his
cuisine and give it a fuller dimension.
I would like to see if the summer bounty impacts his
deft touch might make a larger impact with the subtlety and variety of the many vegetables he
(presumably) has access to.