According to Barbara Raleigh of International Design Source, a trend consulting and forecasting firm in New York City, the use of non-traditional materials and a variety of surface treatments will be key components in the eclectic texturing of fine jewelry this fall.
Oxidation, in particular, will be important as a component of the current retro-romantic "Moulin Rouge" look in jewelry."When you think of this French Victorian time, you see a lot of blackened metals with elaborate filigree work," says Raleigh
Shape Shape will take a backseat to the variety of textures and styles that will characterize jewelry this season.However, structured, modern, geometric looks will remain popular.
According to Hahn, symmetry will continue to be important, with squares as a dominant theme.Raleigh
concurs, citing the use of square-shaped wire earrings, disc-shaped pendants, and geometric-shaped cutouts in metals."The look is clean," she
says."There may be texture, but the shape is distinctly geometric."
Cross motifs also fit nicely into this trend, notes Raleigh
predicts the continued popularity of cross-shaped jewelry pieces throughout the year.
Global InfluencesSuch variety in textures and styles can only mean one thing-abundant influences from many different cultures and time periods.For jewelry looks in general, Frank Proctor, director of marketing for PGI USA, expects to see more abstract designs and larger sizes, borrowing from fashion's bohemian looks.They may incorporate platinum coil and chain to imitate multi-cultural patterns, such as repetitive Moorish motifs with beads interspersed or the graphic themes of Turkish tiles.
Moreover, the use of high-karat gold and enamel inspired by Indian and Middle Eastern cultures will continue to be important.
"Rings remain big and bold with a cultural mix in the design," says Raleigh
."There [can be] a lot of references to international cultures incorporated into one piece."She
cites the example of turquoise combined with oxidized metals and high karat gold, a mix of American Indian, Victorian, and Middle Eastern influences.
Colors Expect the multitude of influences in fashion to result in a colorful jewelry season.Bohemian, ethnic, and romantic looks will be rendered in a wide range of colors, but some palettes will be more dominant than others.
Green/violet tones that occur naturally in some gems will attract strong interest, says Hahn.She
notes the popularity of cultured pearls illuminating a green base color with a lustrous violet sheen.
In light of America's heightened patriotism since the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks, Raleigh
sees Americana as a very important theme in jewelry, in both overt and subtle ways.While stars and stripes may continue to show up in some designs, the message will also be reflected in red, white, and blue color schemes, or other American symbols."There will be more subtle patriotism," Raleigh
predicts, noting the emergence of cowboy looks that use silver and tassels, as well as bridle, saddle, and horse motifs.
Comparably sentimental is a trend toward using elements from the past in jewelry.